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The Science of Laundering and Wear: Understanding Fiber Fragmentation from Secondhand Cotton Denim
Summary
Researchers examined fiber fragment release from secondhand 100% cotton denim during laundering using the AATCC TM212-2021 test method to characterize size, morphology, and quantity of released fragments. The study found that secondhand cotton denim contributes measurable fiber fragment loads to wastewater, providing data relevant to evaluating the environmental footprint of secondhand clothing markets.
Demand for clothing is estimated to increase globally by 4.5% per year, and secondhand clothing is often used to fill that demand. A clear understanding of the environmental impact of secondhand items would support transparency around sustainability, which is a rising consumer concern. This study focuses on the characteristics of the fiber fragment material released during the laundering of secondhand, 100% cotton denim clothing, and the implications of secondhand clothing’s contribution of fiber fragments to the environment. The test method used was AATCC TM212-2021, with detergent, conditioned specimens, and filters. The specimens included thirteen pairs of secondhand men’s 100% cotton jeans (SHS) and two pairs of new jeans (CN controls). This study concluded that the amount of fiber fragmentation material shed by SHS was 23.2% of that shed by CN. While this is less than is shed by new clothing, there is still shed material to consider, including dyes and processing chemicals that can contribute to anthropogenic contamination of the environment. The fiber fragment size and frequency were found to have statistically significant differences between SHS (length 370.5 µm, diameter 16.9 µm, 3093 fiber fragments per filter) and CN (320.7 µm, 13.8 µm, and 5962 fiber fragments per filter).
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