Multiphoton Tomography in Cosmetic Research

Background: Multiphoton tomography (MPT) is a femtosecond laser imaging technique that enables high-resolution virtual biopsies of human skin. It provides a non-invasive method for analyzing cellular metabolism, structural changes, and responses to cosmetic products, providing insights into cell-cosmetic interactions. This review explores the principles, historical development, and key applications of MPT in cosmetic research. Methods: The latest MPT device combines five modalities: (i) two-photon fluorescence: visualizes cells, elastin, and cosmetic ingredients; (ii) second harmonic generation (SHG): maps the collagen network; (iii) fluorescence lifetime imaging (FLIM): differentiate eumelanin from pheomelanin and evaluates the impact of cosmetics on cellular metabolic activity (iv) reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM): images cell membranes and cosmetic particles, and (v) white LED imaging for dermoscopy. Results: MPT enables in-depth examination of extracellular matrix changes, cellular metabolism, and melanin production. It identifies skin responses to cosmetic products and tracks the intratissue distribution of sunscreen nanoparticles, nano- and microplastics, and other cosmetic components. Quantitative measurements, such as the elastin-to-collagen ratio, provide insights into anti-aging effects. Conclusions: MPT is a powerful in vivo imaging tool for the cosmetic industry. Its superior resolution and metabolic information facilitate the evaluation of product efficacy and support the development of personalized skincare solutions.