Next-gen fur design

Fur, valued for its various natural qualities, has historically been a staple in fashion, often signifying status. However, traditional animal-based fur is a controversial material increasingly subject to governmental and organisational bans. Alternatives include synthetic and next-gen materials. Although synthetic fur is more sustainable than animal fur regarding carbon footprint and animal welfare, it still contributes significantly to environmental issues, including microplastic pollution. Next-gen furs are animal- and petrochemical-free alternatives. However, their success is challenging to compare with synthetics due to their natural properties and the substantial time and financial investments already made in the latter. Based on traditional secondary research employing a ‘capture-edit-search’ approach, this investigation explores the potential of defining material properties to be prioritised or avoided when designing a next-gen fur. Starting from an analysis of the traditional material’s properties, the attributes commonly associated with animal-based fur are explored to help formulate strategies to consider when designing next-gen alternatives. As demonstrated, it is unlikely that a next-gen replacement for animal fur will fully replicate the material’s characteristics. However, in a design-driven transition, knowing what to avoid is as important as knowing what to achieve. Therefore, establishing honest design priorities could contribute to a more prosperous fashion future.