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Identify synthetic polymers used in cosmetics and further test their biodegradation in aqueous setup in order to assess their impact on the environment

KTH Publication Database DiVA (KTH Royal Institute of Technology) 2017
Hilal Ayan

Summary

A study identified synthetic polymers used as microbeads and water-soluble additives in cosmetic products and tested their biodegradability in aqueous conditions to assess environmental impact. The research highlights that cosmetic polymers - whether microplastic particles or water-soluble forms - may persist in the environment and lack regulatory oversight.

Polymers

Plastics have a wide application field, where cosmetic products are one of them. Polymers which are building blocks to plastics exists in many variants, overall they can be categorized into two groups; microplastics and water soluble polymers. Both polymer types are important to study and understand since polymers in general are not covered by any legislation. To gain a more profound understanding of their impact on environment this study was conducted. In collaboration with SSNC (Naturskyddsföreningen), a database containing hundreds cosmetic products was processed. The most occurring polymers were quantified and prevalent ingredients having “poly” in their name were selected for further investigation namely Nylon 12-20 (microplast) and Acrylates C/10-30 Alkyl-crosspolymer (water soluble). A standardized analysis method OECD 301 F was performed to test the polymers biodegrading ability. Results from biodegradation method showed that, neither of the two polymers is readily biodegradable in aqueous environment, despite their different properties. In connection with the obtained results, a filtration analysis was performed, with the purpose to determine the possibility to capture the polymers using microfilters. Results mainly showed flowthrough of both polymers. Relating the results to reality implies that these polymers are not captured in waste water treatment plant due to inefficient filtration and thereby spread to the environment. In addition more research should be devoted to water-soluble polymers and their impact on nature. Based on all compiled results, it is proposed that legislation addressing microplastics should be edited and revised in such a way that water soluble polymers are included in future prohibitions (against microplastics).

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