Eco-conception d'étoffes en polyester pour limiter le relargage de fragments de fibres microplastiques lors du premier lavage

The textile industry is responsible for 35% of microplastics released into the oceans. Textiles release microplastic fibre fragments throughout their life cycle, from the production stages of transforming the fibre into yarn and then fabric, through wear and machine washing, to the end of their life. This thesis aims to design textiles that release fewer microplastic fibre fragments into the environment. To achieve this, the level of microplastic fibre release during the first wash of textiles is measured according to their design parameters. In order to determine the impact of design choices on the release, Taguchi design of experiments methodology is used. These enable to study the influence of each textile transformation process (spinning, weaving, knitting, and surface treatments). The results of these experimental designs highlight the textile processes that have the greatest impact on the release of microplastic fibre fragments during the first wash after manufacturing. Design rules have therefore been formalised to enable engineers to estimate and reduce the release from textiles during the first wash. The aim of this research is to apply these findings to the development of polyester textiles that generate fewer microplastic fibre fragments in the environment.