Coopetition in Sustainable Apparel Manufacturing : An interview study

The apparel industry is one of the biggest environmentally polluting industries globally. In recent years, there has been a shift from the end consumers towards sustainable fashion products due to the concern of the environmental impact of their purchases. Due to this, fashion brands have been trying to offer sustainable products to this growing customer segment. Fashion brands have been requesting apparel manufacturers and the other ecosystem partners involved in the apparel manufacturing process to develop sustainable products. Therefore, the apparel industry has been trying to move into sustainable manufacturing methods due to the pressure from external stake-holders and also due to the growing demand for sustainable products. This has posed several challenges to conventional apparel manufacturers who have developed their business models based on fast fashion. Hence, the objective of this study is to understand the current sustainable goals of the apparel manufacturing industry and also examine the challenges faced by apparel manufacturers when achieving them. Furthermore, whether there are existing coopetition ele-ments in the apparel manufacturing ecosystem. To achieve these research objectives, a case study of a global apparel manufacturer from South Asia was conducted. A series of qualitative interviews was conducted to gather data from the main actors in the organization. The interview data was transcribed and analyzed using the thematic data analysis method to get a broader understanding of the industry. The key findings present the need for a systematic change in the apparel industry in order to make a substantial shift toward sustainability. Particularly in the current 'buyer-driven' business model, where price sensitivity is the central factor in selecting apparel manufacturers, collaborat-ing among vertical actors poses significant challenges, while horizontal actor collaboration re-mains rare. Coopetition is a novel concept in the highly competitive apparel manufacturing indus-try. However, it offers promise as a means to achieve shared sustainable goals among ecosystem partners. Although, it is essential to emphasize that such initiatives need to be spearheaded by fashion brands, given their influential role in the apparel supply chains. In addition, equal commit-ment from the ecosystem partners needs to be ensured in order to mitigate misunderstandings. In conclusion, this study presents the importance of collaboration between ecosystem partners in the apparel manufacturing industry when achieving sustainable goals.