A Systemic Material Innovation Study of the Current State and Future Possibilities for Circular Polyester

This paper focuses on the current state and future potential of the most prevalent synthetic fibre, polyester, as a circular textile. The aim is to reveal areas for intervention in the current system that might lead the transition to circular polyester in the future. A qualitative Systemic Material Innovation (SMI) study was undertaken to reveal barriers and opportunities to achieving circular polyester from a holistic perspective. Interviews were conducted with 20 industry experts, including co-designing NOW and FUTURE eco-system maps for circular polyester, and a roadmap for transition. Analysis and synthesis of the data revealed that ‘design for reuse and recycling’ is seen as central to realising circular polyester, in particular replacing elastane and ‘fleece’. Inaction by brands, the lack of granular post-use data, appropriate collection practices, and the low-cost of conventional polyester were also highlighted as barriers. Improved understanding of the life cycle impacts and actions amongst all stakeholders was seen as a key opportunity that might be leveraged through dialogue with other stakeholders. Six actions for industry and research are recommended. Data visualisation is used to translate the findings and operationalise the findings for a broad range of stakeholders in the polyester eco-system.