Strategy for the development of a new stick formula without microplastics

Plastic is a synthetic, malleable, and durable material that has been used for various applications since its invention in the late 19th century. During its very long-time degradation process, mechanical and/or photochemical processes fragment plastic into increasingly smaller fragments called microplastics (MPs). In the cosmetic field, MPs are directly added to many products for various functions, including to exploit their exfoliating and structuring power. Unfortunately, it has been realized that MPs are not retained in purification plants and therefore end up in the aquatic environment causing a high problem of environmental pollution. Polyethene (PE) is the most widely used MP in cosmetics due to its use as a structuring agent, to provide consistency to formulations and as a key ingredient in lipsticks and mascaras. Given the limitations imposed by regulations and the growing demand from consumers for chemical-free and eco-friendly products, the common synthetic and petroleum-based waxes used in lipstick formulations, such as PE, must necessarily be replaced by natural waxes of plant origin. In this paper we report the development of a chemical-free and eco-friendly cosmetic stick. To achieve the goal, it was necessary to study the compatibility of the ABWAX® Revowax, natural alternative to PE, with oils and colours to predict the behaviour of these structuring waxes in more complex systems. Through a systematic comparative study, the two waxes showed similar thermal characteristics and showed similar penetration curves, presenting overall comparable performance in the MP-free finished product. We can therefore consider ABWAX® Revowax natural wax a valid alternative to PE.