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From a disposable to a sustainable fashion industry: A review of the shameful trade flows of used textiles and the need to address fast fashion
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This review traces the fashion industry's shift from disposable fast fashion toward more sustainable production models, with a focus on the environmental toll of synthetic textile fibers. It identifies key strategies for reducing microfiber pollution and transitioning to circular material systems.
While waste production can contribute to a variety of environmental issues, including greenhouse gas emissions, the production of waste from fast fashion is no exception. Spanning across various sectors such as agriculture, petrochemical production, manufacturing, logistics, and retail, the clothing and textiles industry is considered one of the most polluting industries globally (Bailey et al., 2022). It is responsible for approximately 8 to 10 per cent of total carbon emissions and 20 per cent of global wastewater. In 2021, Chile, for instance, emerged as the fourth-largest importer of used textiles, and the first in Latin America. Currently, imports have surpassed 126,000 million tons per year, with China, the United States, and the Republic of Korea accounting for the majority of imports (Pérez et al., 2022). Drawing on a systematic literature review, the paper aims to shed light on the adverse environmental impacts of fast fashion as a new business approach. By doing so, the paper stresses the need for immediate legal action to halt the current practices of dumping low-quality second-hand clothing in regions of the Global South that lack the infrastructure to effectively handle such hazardous materials. On the whole, the paper concludes that textile waste, similar to plastic waste, is clearly hazardous and, unfortunately, rather obscurely regulated.
More Papers Like This
Global Fast Fashion Industry: Present Opportunities and Future Challenges for Sustainability
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This study explores the environmental and social implications of fast fashion, finding the industry emits 8-10% of global CO2 and releases significant quantities of microplastics into waterways through synthetic textile production and washing. The authors argue that systemic changes in policy, business practices, and consumer behavior are required alongside technological innovation for true sustainability.
Reversing Direction in the Used Clothing Crisis: Global, European and Chilean Perspectives
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This report by UNECE and UNECLAC examines global trade flows of second-hand clothing with a focus on Europe and Chile, finding that 124,000 tonnes of used textiles entered Chile in 2022 alone, with large volumes ending up in the Atacama Desert and releasing microplastics and chemicals into the environment.
Transformation Toward Slow Fashion: A Literature Synthesis on the Ecological and Social Impacts of Fast Fashion
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This review synthesized literature from 2014 to 2024 on the ecological and social impacts of fast fashion, finding that the industry contributes up to 10% of global carbon emissions, generates significant microplastic and textile waste, consumes large water volumes, and is linked to labor exploitation — while identifying slow fashion as a viable sustainable alternative.
Analisis Regulasi Pengelolaan Limbah Fast Fashion di Indonesia: Implementasi Extended Producer Responsibility sebagai Instrumen Hukum dalam Pengelolaan Limbah Tekstil
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Fast fashion—cheap, trendy clothes made to be worn a few times and tossed—creates massive textile waste that pollutes water and sheds microplastics into the environment, including our oceans and food chain. This legal analysis finds that Indonesia's current laws have major gaps, like not requiring clothing brands to take back or safely dispose of used garments, meaning the companies creating the waste bear little responsibility for cleaning it up. The researchers argue that stronger "producer responsibility" laws, similar to those in parts of Europe, are needed to hold fashion brands accountable and reduce the pollution that ultim
The global apparel industry is a significant yet overlooked source of plastic leakage
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This comprehensive assessment estimated that the global apparel industry generated 8.3 million tons of plastic pollution in 2019—representing 14% of estimated total global plastic pollution—with synthetic clothing as mismanaged waste being the dominant source rather than production-stage fiber emissions. The authors conclude that a fundamental transformation toward circular apparel economies and decreased synthetic clothing consumption is essential to address apparel-related plastic pollution.
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When a large batch of papers lands in the Atlas, we read through it and send a short write-up of what stood out.